Props to amazing wine makers

Traveling through Campania we were on a mission to figure out the

differences between the two noble white grape varietals of Southern
Italy.  Greco and Fiano.  We wanted to know their stories and find
what grape was in favor.
I’ve always thought that the difference in these grapes is best and
most easily expressed by their contrast in color.  Greco is a green.
It shows lighter weight on the palate, green apple fruits, high crisp
acidity, and loads of minerals.  Ultimately every time I taste Greco I
see the color green.  Fiano is yellow.  It exhibits yellow pears,
golden delicious apples, a bit of a waxy feeling on the tongue, more

body, a softer minerality, and always a smoky finish.  I enjoy both of

these grapes equally and though I certainly prefer one or the other
with certain dishes, I would be hard pressed to choose one that I
favor.

Avellino Bandits

On day three of our trip we are traveling to a town out side of

Avellino.  Having spent hours navigating the small and winding, tree
lined streets we only find ourselves getting more lost.  Meanwhile the
GPS helpfully keeps us traveling in circles.  We bump into a little
town where there is a Pizza café and decide to take a breather.  We go
in to find local and very friendly Italians who, as it seems is the
case with all Italians, know everyone and where they live.  So we ask
in our broken Italian, scusi? Dove Valdiperti?  “Ah yes,” our gracious
host replies, “let me take you.”  Gallantly he hops on his Vespa and
off we go, arriving quickly at our destination, literally 3 blocks
from the Pizza joint.
 When we get there we meet Rafaele a full time high school chemistry teacher, who makes his wines like a mad scientist.  

 We get a tour of the vineyards that are double as his front yard. He digs his hands

into the soil as he explains to us that the soils are clay and you can pick out the chunks of terracotta.  He insures us there are no pesticides on any of his fruit.  “You can tell because there are so many lizards and butterflies and bees around.  I have a daughter and

when she plays in the fields I want her to know she can eat any of the grapes and be safe.”

  There are dogs running around everywhere in Southern Italy.
Everyone has multiple dogs but rather than caring for them as pets
they let them act like real animals, roaming the large countryside
more connected to the ancient wolves from which they spring then the
domesticated show pieces that is the American Dog.  To see them
American Dogs would whimper in jealousy, they run wherever and after
whatever they want, usually cars.
 Rafaele suggests that for proper consumption of his Fiano it should
be let rest for 3 plus years.  He shows us around his cellar and after
tasting through his tanks; he is increasingly excited by us, his new
wine enthusiast friends.  So much so he goes into his cellar and pulls
out two Riesling shaped bottles that are bagged.  He knew

we were on a mission to find out the differences between Greco and

Fiano and he pulls out a Valdiaperti 1995 Greco and a 1992 Fiano.

We were blown away for many different reasons!  First, these wines showed absolutely no oxidation.  Second, going on my previous assumptions about the grapes we guessed these wines backwards.  The Fiano took on more green notes and the minerality really started to
show.  For the Greco it became more relaxed showing fatter.   We all agreed with Rafaele’s opinion that Fiano needs three plus years, and Greco the same.  We compared the wines to food and this is what we got.

Fiano is like pancetta
Greco is like soprasada
Coda di Volpe is like Cavallo

 Rafaele knew Rossana from I Favati so he took us to her house where

we would be staying a few nights.  When we arrived she was getting
ready for her Sunday night bash.  While we were waiting for all of her
friends to arrive, Rafaele stayed and taught me how to play Briscola.
 We woke up the next morning with a headache from festivities and
were greeted by the stereotypical southern Italian or someone right
out of Jersey for that matter.  Black greased up hair, huge
sunglasses, and a polo with the collar pulled up.  We get into

his black mini SUV and as soon as he turns the ignition, Metal. Black
Metal. Blaring.
 Sabino takes us down familiar winding tree lined streets.  To our
surprise we end up right next to Valdiaperti’s house.  It turns out we
are adjacent to where Pietracupa and Valdiaperti are sharing the same vineyards.

 We are invited into his private wine cellar to pick out things to
drink with lunch.  This place had a very interesting organization to
it.  After much digging through German Riesling, Burgundy, Champagne,

and a bunch of other Italian wines we find our hands full.
  Dinner consists of homemade Avellino Gnocchi with a ragu, roasted
red peppers, and grilled zucchini from the garden plus plenty of fresh
mozzarella.  

Caciocavallo aging

This was the perfect time to talk about our mission.
“Sabino, what do you prefer to work with, Greco or Fiano?”  In Italy you have plenty of time to think and so he answered with no hesitation.  “I prefer to work with Greco, everyone like (sic) to work with Fiano.  Not me Fiano is to easy, you get large clusters and they ripen perfectly, you can plant them anywhere, and there really is
nothing you can do to Fiano to make even better.  Greco there is a challenge, it is a difficult to grow grape, it ripens unevenly, the

skins are thin, and it likes rot.  It needs your attention.”  After
tasting his Greco, it shows that he really enjoys the challenges of

this grape.  This wine was breathtaking.  It had great minerals,
vibrant green fruits, and piercing acidity.  It was absolutely perfect.

 After a few games of Briscola with Sabino’s dad we headed to Taurasi

to visit Contrade.  At Contrade’s house there are a bunch of children
playing in the yard and the rest of the family sits at a picnic table

enjoying an afternoon snack.  Sandro greeted us with a hug and a

smile.  

100 year old Aglianico

As we walk to his winery he gives us a tour of his vineyards.
To our right there was a patch of land with over 100 year old vines
that were large and knotty. 

Suspicious Aglianico

 When we get to the winery we are surrounded by rows and rows of Agliancio so well taken care of you would have thought that there were some tricks going on.  We enter his winery, a small run down farmhouse.  He pulls out a few glasses and pours us a wine he makes for fun and his personal consumption Greco moscio.  A white varietal, not related to Greco.  One of Sandro’s friends grows this grape for him and all 200 vines worth of juice get

made into this delicious wine. 

 Contrade’s Taurasi are like no other

intriguing and complex but very friendly and approachable.

It was quite an adventure traveling through Southern Italy to say the
least.  We met many good friends and tasted some fantastic wine.
After all that research I still feel that Greco is green and Fiano is
yellow.